ナンタケット

The Nantucket is one of Hermès's signature ladies' watches. Its defining trait is an elongated, horizontally oriented case built as a "rectangle within a rectangle," drawn from the links of the Chaîne d'Ancre (anchor chain). Long regarded as a sibling to the Cape Cod, its slender, vertically extended face is said to flatter and slim the wrist, and the "double tour" version—whose leather strap wraps twice around the wrist—is especially beloved. Built around a quartz movement, it has appeared in a wide range of variations across stainless steel, gold, and diamond-set executions. Classic yet assertive, it has long appealed to those who enjoy a watch worn like jewelry.

The Nantucket debuted in 1991. It is attributed to Henri d'Origny, designer of many Hermès icons, and was conceived as a counterpart to the Cape Cod, launched the same year. The case takes its cue from the links of the Chaîne d'Ancre ("anchor chain"), the emblematic Hermès bracelet created by Robert Dumas in 1938. Translating this nautical motif—rooted in a ship's anchor and chain—into a watch form reflects the maison's craft heritage in leather and saddlery. The name references Nantucket Island in Massachusetts, lending the line a seaside, yachting-inspired world.

Both the Nantucket and the Cape Cod incorporate the Chaîne d'Ancre into the case and can look similar at a glance. The decisive difference lies in the shape of the dial and case. Where the Cape Cod sets a small square within a near-square frame, the Nantucket is based on a tall, horizontally oriented rectangle. A simple shorthand: Cape Cod skews square, Nantucket is an elongated rectangle. They wear differently too—the Nantucket reads as daintier and more feminine, favored by those who prefer a slim silhouette. Both also share the idea of interchangeable straps, letting the look change with a swap of band.

The Nantucket has come in several sizes. The current PM (small model) is roughly 29 mm in overall case height by 17 mm wide. The widely known double-tour versions measure around 23 × 17 mm, with an even smaller "mini" size also reported. On the secondhand market, figures such as "20 × 27 mm" appear depending on era and specification, and because measuring conventions differ by generation (lug-to-lug vs. case only), dimensions vary by account—so verify actual measurements at purchase. Materials center on stainless steel, extending to yellow and rose gold and diamond-set executions.

The case is most commonly stainless steel, with precious-metal versions in yellow and rose gold and opulent editions setting diamonds on the bezel or dial. Dials are typically opaline or silvered, and light-catching materials such as mother-of-pearl also appear. The straps are the line's great draw, crafted in the Hermès leather ateliers from materials like Barénia calf and alligator. They span natural tan, black, étoupe, and assorted vivid colors, often with contrasting white stitching. The ability to shift from casual to elegant simply by changing the band underpins the watch's enduring appeal.

A symbol of the Nantucket's popularity is the "double tour"—a leather strap that wraps twice around the wrist. The slim band circling the wrist twice creates bracelet-like adornment and a delicate, feminine presence. Note that Hermès's signature double-wrap strap is also strongly associated with the Cape Cod (some sources cite its introduction there in 1998), and accounts differ on whether the double tour "originated" with the Nantucket or the Cape Cod—so it remains a matter of varying record. Either way, the elongated case paired with a double wrap is now an established Nantucket staple and is particularly sought after on the secondhand market.

Useful points to examine include: (1) whether engravings on the caseback or around the lugs (HERMES / PARIS / Swiss Made / production marks or serial) are even, deep, and crisp; (2) whether the Chaîne d'Ancre-derived numeral font and dial printing are clean; (3) the seconds motion typical of quartz and the feel of the crown; (4) the texture, edge finishing, and stamping precision of Barénia and other leathers; and (5) the finishing of straps and buckle hardware. These are only guides and do not guarantee authenticity. Because specifications vary by era, leave the final judgment to an official boutique or a trusted specialist or appraisal house.

On the secondhand market, a standard steel-and-leather Nantucket tends to start around the low-to-mid six figures in yen, with gold and diamond-set pieces commanding more (all figures are estimates, not guaranteed prices; the market shifts with timing, condition, and accessories). When choosing, check: (1) case scratches and any plating wear; (2) strap deterioration (double-wrap bands wear faster); (3) whether the quartz runs and any battery/overhaul history; and (4) accessories such as guarantee and box. Since the strap can be replaced with a genuine band, prioritizing the watch body itself is the sensible approach. This is a watch best chosen as a long-term companion rather than for investment.

The tall, dainty face sits in good balance even on slim wrists and suits everything from business to formal settings. Worn as a double tour, the strap decorates the wrist like a bracelet and shows beautifully with sleeveless looks or rolled-up sleeves. Natural-tone leather pairs well with white shirts and denim, while étoupe and black read elegant year-round. Keeping several straps to swap lets a single watch shift its mood—a very Hermès pleasure. Layering it with bangles or Chaîne d'Ancre-style bracelets makes a knowing nod to its origins.

Leather straps are vulnerable to water, perspiration, direct sunlight, and heat and humidity—avoiding these is the key to longevity. In sweaty seasons, wipe the strap with a soft dry cloth after wear and let moisture escape before storing. Double-wrap straps take strain at the fold, so replacing a worn one with a genuine band is the safe choice. Wipe the steel or gold case gently with a soft cloth and avoid abrasives. For the quartz movement, a depleted battery left in place risks leakage, so have it replaced promptly at an authorized service center when it stops. Store away from deformation and direct sunlight—ideally in the supplied case in a dry, cool, dark place.

The name Nantucket comes from Nantucket Island, Massachusetts—a hub of 19th-century whaling—while its sibling, the Cape Cod, is also named after a Massachusetts locale. The two are bound by a shared world of sea, sailing ships, and anchors, echoing the case motif, the Chaîne d'Ancre, which means "anchor chain." Hermès began as a saddlery and leather workshop and entered watchmaking in the first half of the 20th century. The Nantucket is among the ladies' watches that best embody this "house of leather" character—a piece loved less for mechanical specification than for its adornment, materials, and presence on the wrist.