History
The maison's story, its designers, and the world around them.
Timeline
- 1837
Founded as a harness workshop
Thierry Hermès founded a harness and saddlery workshop in Paris, earning a reputation for fine hand-stitched tack.
World contextThe Industrial Revolution; railways were spreading but horse-drawn transport still dominated, driving demand for fine harnesses. Queen Victoria acceded in Britain.
- 1880
Move to 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Under his son Charles-Émile, the house moved to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré — still its flagship address.
World contextThe dawn of the Belle Époque; Paris modernized and the carriage culture of the affluent flourished.
- 1900
The Haut à Courroies
The Haut à Courroies, a large bag for riders to carry saddles and boots, laid the groundwork for later bag-making.
World contextThe 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle; the automobile began to emerge, signaling a shift in transport.
- 1918
Introducing the zipper
Émile-Maurice introduced the zipper (seen in North America) to leather goods — dubbed the 'Hermès fastener'.
World contextThe end of WWI; the spread of cars reduced demand for saddlery, prompting diversification.
- 1922
Into leather bags
The first leather handbags appeared, extending saddlery craftsmanship to bags and accessories.
World contextThe Art Deco era; the Roaring Twenties and changing women's lifestyles created demand for bags.
- 1937
The first silk carré
The first silk scarf, 'Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches', launched — the carré became a house icon.
World contextThe interwar years on the eve of WWII; Paris remained a center of art and decoration.
- 1945
The Duc carriage logo
The 'Duc attelé, groom à l'attente' logo (after Alfred de Dreux) and the orange boxes became standard.
World contextThe end of WWII; luxury revived alongside postwar reconstruction.
- 1956
The 'Kelly' bag is named
The Sac à Dépêches became famous as Grace Kelly carried it, earning the nickname 'Kelly'.
World contextPostwar prosperity; Grace Kelly became Princess of Monaco (1956), and celebrity culture amplified the bag's status.
- 1984
The Birkin is born
The Birkin, said to have originated in a conversation between Jean-Louis Dumas and actress Jane Birkin, debuted.
World contextThe 1980s boom and brand craze; luxury bags began to take on asset-like value.
Designers & leadership
Lola Prusac
1926–1935An early pioneer of the house's ready-to-wear and accessories design.
Catherine de Károlyi
1967–1980Led womenswear through the 1960s–70s.
Martin Margiela
1997–2003A celebrated era of minimal, intellectual design.
Jean Paul Gaultier
2003–2010Brought a bold, sensual couture sensibility.
Christophe Lemaire
2010–2014A refined, quiet, wearable style.
Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski
2014–presentThe first woman in the role in over 20 years; leads womenswear today.
Véronique Nichanian
1988–presentA rare long-tenured head of menswear.
Robert Dumas
1951–1978Shaped iconic designs such as the Kelly clasp and the Chaîne d'Ancre.
Jean-Louis Dumas
1978–2006Led the creation of the Birkin and the maison's global expansion.
Axel Dumas
2013–presentA sixth-generation family member leading Hermès today.
Sources & video insights
This site is not affiliated with or an authorized dealer of Hermès. It is a neutral third-party information/referral portal. Authenticity, era, community opinions, and AI identification are not guarantees.
Used to cross-check the timeline and tenures here. Final accuracy requires expert review.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HermèsA by-appointment Shibuya PARCO store (one of Japan's largest, ~200 pieces). Owner Naoaki Tobe (十倍) explains dating, materials, and lore of pieces like the Chaîne d'Ancre in videos/articles. Per-item 'notes' draw on this VCM / Tobe source.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9wYRkp4YisLore on Chaîne d'Ancre, Boucle Sellier, Torsade, Crescendo, Alea, Acrobat and Graines des Champs — distributed into each model's 'notes' with citation.
https://www.fashionsnap.com/article/hermes-vintage-jewelry/A Daikanyama store specializing in vintage Hermès with one of the largest inventories in Japan. A shop-tour video shows the selection in person.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYLSJUUtWrURead the era from link shape and silver: 1960s = slim square 'early links' in silver 800; 1970s = silver 925; 1990s = rounder 'Margiela-era' links.
https://www.fashionsnap.com/article/hermes-chainedancre-vcm/Shape ↔ year: 1945–70 none / 71–96 circle / 97–2014 square / 2015– none (non-sequential). Reflected in the 'Blind stamp basics' article.
https://laforma.club/hermes-date-stamps/