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The Chaîne d'Ancre ("anchor chain") is one of Hermès's defining jewelry lines, built on the motif of the chain that secures a ship's anchor. Its hallmark is a sequence of oval links, each bisected across its short axis by a single horizontal bar (the traversière). This deceptively simple repetition produces a presence that is at once robust and elegant. Debuting as a bracelet in 1938, it expanded over the decades into necklaces, rings, earrings and cufflinks, executed in everything from sterling silver (SV925) to gold and high jewelry. It remains a timeless house icon with enduring appeal on the vintage market.

In the late 1930s, Robert Dumas of the Hermès family is said to have observed the heavy anchor chains securing fishing and cargo vessels along the Normandy coast, finding beauty in their interlocking geometry. In 1938 he translated the motif into his first piece, a bracelet. Using silver for jewelry was unusual at the time, and several accounts note that Dumas entrusted production to De Percin, one of the few craftsmen willing to work the metal. Some sources date the initial inspiration to 1937; while such details vary by account, the product's 1938 debut is widely agreed upon.

What gives this line its range is how dramatically each piece's character shifts with link size, commonly described in five steps: TPM, PM, MM, GM and TGM. Approximate per-link dimensions are roughly TPM ~0.9 cm, PM ~1.4 cm, MM ~1.7 cm, GM ~2.1 cm and TGM ~2.4 cm (figures vary somewhat by source and should be treated as guidelines). The initials come from the French Modèle: TPM = Très Petit, PM = Petit, MM = Moyen, GM = Grand, TGM = Très Grand. Smaller links read as delicate and easy for everyday wear, while larger links feel bold and commanding.

For bracelets, adding roughly 1–1.5 cm to your measured wrist is commonly suggested for a comfortable fit.

The most familiar version is sterling silver (SV925, 92.5% silver), a widely trusted industry standard. Relatively accessible and easy to pair from casual to formal looks, it is often chosen as a first piece. Gold versions use 18-karat metal (yellow, white or rose), lending warmth and formality; white gold is noted for scratch resistance and rose gold for its softer tone. At the high-jewelry end, more elaborate executions set with pavé diamonds or colored stones (sapphire, ruby, emerald, etc.) also exist.

The single bar crossing each link's short axis is called the traversière; on a real anchor chain it serves the practical role of keeping the chain from collapsing under lateral load. Hermès placed this functional beauty at the very heart of the design. The links connect smoothly, and as the size increases the pieces gain thickness and weight, heightening their three-dimensional presence. Clasps come in several forms (toggle, hook and others), and finishing details vary by era and reference. Because the design is so pared-back, the quality of the polished surfaces and the precision of the joints directly shape its character.

On silver pieces, the "Hermès" stamp and the silver-purity mark "Ag925" are generally found on the link just before the end ring, while the maker's mark and the French silver guarantee hallmark appear on the end ring itself. The French silver guarantee is famously rendered as the profile head of the goddess Minerva (Minerve). The placement, typeface and depth of these marks vary with era and manufacturing context, so a stamp alone cannot pin down a precise year. Hallmarks are a useful clue for identification, but they do not by themselves determine authenticity and should be treated as reference information only.

Worth checking: the smoothness of the link-and-bar joints, the evenness of the polished surfaces, the consistency of the stamp typeface and placement, and how securely the clasp engages. Silver tarnishes (sulfides) over time, so inspect surface condition, any signs of re-polishing, stretching or distortion of the links, and clasp looseness. That said, these are only general guidelines and do not guarantee authenticity. This site does not perform appraisals, and nothing here is a guarantee of genuineness. For anything you are unsure about—or for higher-value transactions—we strongly recommend a final check with a trusted third party such as a specialist or an authorized channel.

Second-hand prices fluctuate widely with material (silver vs. gold), size (PM through TGM), number of links and total length, condition, the presence of accessories, and prevailing supply and demand. Gold pieces, the larger TGM, and rarer specifications tend to command more, but everything stated here is an estimate and does not guarantee any specific transaction price. We offer no investment advice. As for choosing, a use-based approach is clearest: a delicate PM/MM for everyday wear, or a GM/TGM for statement presence. As neutral information, it is best to compare multiple sellers and conditions before deciding.

Part of the Chaîne d'Ancre's appeal is its gender-neutral design, wearable across ages and styles. Delicate PM/MM pieces lend themselves to layering and to mixing with a watch, blending easily into daily life. GM/TGM can stand alone as the focal point, striking against a simple outfit. Coordinating bracelet, necklace and ring within the same line creates a refined, unified look. Silver suits both casual and formal settings, while gold adds a dressier sense of occasion. Deliberately mixing different metals is another way to enjoy it.

Silver tarnishes from sulfur in the air, so after wearing, wipe away oils and sweat with a soft cloth and gently polish with a dedicated silver cloth to keep its shine. Use harsh abrasives or chemicals sparingly, as they can damage the stamps and surfaces. Storing pieces in a zip-lock bag to block air and moisture helps limit discoloration. It is wise to remove jewelry around perfume, hot springs, pools, bathing and exercise. Gold tarnishes less readily, but for all versions, guard against snagging or drops that cause distortion or scratches, and avoid stressing the link joints and clasp.

The Chaîne d'Ancre is a rare motif born where the saddlery-and-leather world of Hermès's origins meets a different source entirely—the sea and ships. The idea of elevating a piece of "functional hardware," the anchor chain, into an ornament embodies the house's philosophy of prizing functional beauty. From a single 1938 bracelet, the line later branched into variations—multi-stranded interweavings, versions with wider link intervals and more—while keeping the same DNA. It is precisely this universality, beloved for more than eight decades, that earns the anchor chain its status as a true classic among classics.